Go to: Ordering – Shipping – Returns – Privacy – Disclaimer – Warranty
Ordering
- I accept Discover, Visa, and Mastercard, as well as PayPal, Venmo, and Zelle. I usually don’t process your payment until I’m ready to mail your order.
- You’ll get an automated confirmation after you order, and I’ll follow up with a personal reply asap to ask any questions I might have, and to let you know when to expect your order.
Shipping
- I can usually accommodate rush shipments, but you must ask nicely.
- I ship via U.S. Mail. Shipping & handling is FREE for orders over $40. Under that amount, I will charge as close to exact shipping as possible; usually less than $10.
- International orders, please inquire for shipping rates.
Returns
- Please contact me before sending anything back.
- Anything can be returned for any reason within 30 days of receipt. If it’s because you simply don’t like it or changed your mind, I’ll refund your money (except shipping/handling) when I receive it back. If I messed up or the work is defective, I’ll make it right. (See warranty below.)
- If you want to exchange your order for something else, that’s fine. I want to make sure you love the work you buy from me.
Privacy
- The shopping cart is on a secure server when you get to the part where you enter your credit card number.
- I’ll never share your name or contact info with any other mailing list ever, because I hate when it happens to me.
Disclaimer
- Everything here is handmade, by one person, one at a time.
- Variations from what you see depicted are almost certainly guaranteed.
- Know this, accept this, expect this.
Warranty
I want you to be happy with my work, whether you purchase from me or from one of the shops that sells my work.
Light switch plates:
- The most likely issue is that the paint on the screw heads got scratched. Lemme tell ya, each screw head gets an alcohol wipe, two coats of paint, a coat of matte varnish, and then it’s baked briefly to make the paint as scratch-proof as possible. If they do get scratched, you can paint them yourself with acrylic paint — the inexpensive paints from the craft store will work. If you want me to replace painted screws, I’ll need a photo of the switch plate and $5 for time and postage.
- Did the switch plate not cover the hole in the wall around the switch? Your contractor may have cut a hole larger than necessary. I do make oversized switch plates by request; they’re about $5 more than my regular price. Contact me if you need one, and we’ll talk measurements.
- Other switch plate issues, not screw head or size related? Email me please, with a photo of the issue.
Clocks:
- If your clock isn’t keeping time, the first thing to try is a fresh battery. Also, is the red switch on the mechanism in the “on” position?
- Is the hour hand loose on the shaft? If so, remove the nut at the end of the shaft, and lift off the minute hand. Carefully press the hour hand back onto the shaft. I use my thumbs — one on each side — to press the hour hand into place. Then replace the minute hand (line up the shape of the end of the shaft and the hole in the end of the hand) and the nut.
- Does the minute hand catch on the hour hand when it tries to pass? Sounds like the hand is bent; you can gently bend the minute hand upward just a bit by lifting from the tip.
- If the battery is fresh, the switch is “on,” and the hand thing didn’t work, I can send you a new mechanism and instructions for you to replace the defective or broken one. I’ll request a photo of the clock so I can see the hands.
- If it’s a defective mechanism, I’ll send you a new mechanism (and instructions!) at no charge. I know you’re honest, so if you dropped the clock, left it out in the rain, let the battery leak into the mechanism, or something like that, the cost for a replacement mechanism (including postage) is $15.
- Other issues with a clock, not mechanism-related? Email me and we’ll figure something out.
Magnets:
- Once in while, a magnet becomes separated from the decorative polymer clay. This sometimes happens when removing the magnets from the card they’re sold on. Those glue dots are freakin’ sticky!
- If there’s a white adhesive sticker that was holding the magnet onto the polymer clay, remove it. White adhesive or not, wipe the backs of both the polymer and the magnet with rubbing alcohol. Just a quick swipe to remove finger oils or anything else that would interfere with glue. Put a drop of superglue on the polymer clay and press the magnet onto it. Hold it in place of a few seconds and that should do it.
- Other issues with magnets, not adhesive-related? Send me an email.
Earrings:
- I hammer the curve in each ear wire for strength (it’s called “work hardening”), but sometimes one will get bent a little out of shape. You can gently bend the wire with your fingers.
- If the polymer clay part of the earring broke, I apologize! Each one is stress tested before assembly, but if a defective one slipped through, I’ll absolute replace it. If you accidentally stepped on an earring or you cat chewed on one, tell me so we can work something out. Email me a photo of the broken earring(s) please, and I’ll be in touch.